FOOTWEAR MATERIALS GUIDE

Corrected-grain leather has been buffed or lightly abraded to reduce visible surface irregularities. Pigments, coatings or an embossed grain may then be applied to create a more uniform colour and appearance.

This can be useful for products or commercial ranges requiring greater visual consistency. However, the degree of correction and thickness of the surface finish can vary considerably.

Flexibility, crease behaviour and finish adhesion should therefore be evaluated in relation to the intended product and construction.

Nubuck is produced by lightly abrading the grain surface of the leather to create a fine, velvety nap. Compared with suede, its nap is generally shorter and more subtle.

The surface may show tonal movement when touched or brushed and can develop marks through handling and wear.

These characteristics contribute to its natural appearance but should be considered in relation to the product’s intended use, performance and care requirements.

Pull-up and waxed leathers are treated with oils, waxes or both. When the leather is folded, stretched or handled, these substances move within the material and create lighter tonal areas.

Creases, marks and colour movement are part of the intended character of this type of leather rather than signs of damage. Pull-up effects are frequently used for boots, casual footwear, bags and accessories intended to develop a richer patina through use.

Shade variation, cutting placement and the expected movement of oils or waxes should be considered during development.

Embossing uses pressure, and often heat, to create a pattern or texture on the leather surface. It may produce pebbled, geometric, reptile-inspired or other decorative effects. Printing can introduce colour, imagery, pattern or additional visual depth.

Pattern scale, direction, repetition and alignment should be considered during cutting and assembly. The material must also be assessed for possible distortion when it is folded, stitched or lasted over a three-dimensional form.

The clarity and depth of an embossed or printed finish may vary between hides and production batches.

Patent leather has a sealed, high-gloss surface, while other coated leathers may range from softly polished to matt, metallic or highly reflective finishes.

These treatments can create a distinctive formal or fashion-led appearance, but the coating may influence flexibility, breathability, adhesion and crease behaviour. The material should therefore be tested for compatibility with the intended construction, finishing process and use.

Specialist materials may include hair-on hides, metallic, distressed or perforated leathers, exotic and exotic-effect surfaces, two-tone treatments and other bespoke finishes.

Each material should be evaluated individually according to its thickness, structure, usable cutting area, pattern direction, symmetry, reinforcement requirements and expected performance.

Availability, consistency, minimum quantities, lead times and any relevant sourcing or documentation requirements will depend on the particular material and project.

Footwear uppers may also incorporate canvas, denim, woven textiles, knitted materials, synthetics or other technical materials.

These options can be used independently or combined with leather to create different levels of flexibility, breathability, structure and visual contrast.

The material must be tested for cutting, stitching, reinforcement, lasting and compatibility with the selected construction method.

The materials inside a shoe are as important as those visible on the outside.

Linings, heel grips, toe puffs, counters, reinforcement tapes, insocks and footbeds affect comfort, stability, moisture management and the way the footwear maintains its shape.

Their selection depends on the style, construction, performance requirements and intended market position of the product.

The outsole and midsole influence the weight, flexibility, grip, durability and overall appearance of the footwear.

Common options may include:

• rubber; 
• thermoplastic rubber; 
• EVA; 
• polyurethane; 
• leather; 
• crepe; 
• moulded compounds; 
• combined or layered sole constructions. 

The chosen sole must be compatible with the last, upper design, construction method and intended use of the footwear.

Availability may depend on existing moulds, minimum production quantities or the development of a custom sole.

Leather is a natural material, and no two hides are exactly alike.

Variations may occur between separate hides, different production batches and individual areas of the same hide. These differences are an inherent feature of genuine leather and contribute to the character of the finished material.

Natural variations may include:

• differences in colour and shade; 
• grain size and distribution; 
• pores and surface texture; 
• wrinkles and growth marks; 
• veins and subtle natural markings; 
• small scars or healed surface marks; 
• differences in softness or firmness; 
• variations in gloss and light reflection; 
• changes in suede or nubuck nap; 
• pull-up, wax or distressed effects. 

These characteristics should not automatically be considered defects. Their visibility and acceptability depend on the leather type, finish, product category and agreed quality requirements.

The leather images shown on this website are intended to provide a representative visual guide.

Although reasonable care is taken when preparing and presenting material imagery, digital images cannot guarantee an exact representation of the physical leather.

The appearance of a colour or finish may be affected by:

• lighting conditions; 
• camera settings; 
• image processing; 
• screen brightness; 
• colour calibration; 
• device display settings; 
• reflections from glossy or textured surfaces; 
• the direction of suede or nubuck nap. 

As a result, a leather viewed online may appear lighter, darker, warmer, cooler, more matt or more glossy than the physical material.

Even where standard tannery colours or finishing references are used, minor variations may occur between hides and production batches.

Where precise colour, grain, texture or finish matching is important, we recommend requesting and approving a physical leather swatch or material sample before production.

A physical sample provides a more reliable indication of the material than a digital image. However, it should still be understood that natural variations may occur between the approved sample and the hides supplied for production.

Unless otherwise agreed in writing, an approved physical sample should take precedence over website imagery or digital colour references.

Material approval should take place before bulk cutting or production begins.

Leather and material availability may change according to tannery stock, supplier lead times, seasonal colour ranges and production schedules.

Certain materials may also be subject to:

• minimum order quantities; 
• full-hide purchasing requirements; 
• batch production; 
• custom colour minimums; 
• extended lead times; 
• limited or discontinued availability. 

Where an exact material is unavailable, a suitable alternative may be proposed for review and approval.

No alternative material should be considered confirmed until its colour, finish, performance and commercial conditions have been accepted.

Materials naturally react to wear, movement, moisture, light, heat and handling.

Depending on the leather or finish, changes may include:

• softening with use; 
• the development of creases; 
• gradual colour variation; 
• surface polishing; 
• patina formation; 
• movement of oils and waxes; 
• changes in suede or nubuck nap; 
• transfer of colour in certain conditions. 

These changes may form part of the expected ageing process of the material.

The intended use, care requirements and expected product lifespan should therefore be considered during material selection.