Leather, textiles, linings, reinforcements, sole materials and components all influence the appearance, structure, comfort, durability and production feasibility of a finished product.
At Smerilli Design Manufacturing, materials are considered as part of the complete development process. The most visually appealing option is not always the most suitable one. Each material must be evaluated according to the product design, intended use, construction method, required performance and available production quantities.
Selecting a material involves more than choosing a colour or surface texture.
A leather that works well for a soft casual shoe may not provide enough structure for formal footwear. A heavy leather may be suitable for a rugged boot but too rigid for a lightweight sneaker or an unlined upper.
Material selection may depend on:
Our role is to help clients assess these factors before production decisions are finalised.
Full-grain leather retains the natural outer surface of the hide and displays its original grain and character.
It is valued for its durability, natural appearance and ability to develop a distinctive patina over time. Depending on the tannage and finish, full-grain leather may be soft and flexible or firm and highly structured.
It is commonly considered for premium footwear, boots, bags, belts and other leather goods where natural character and long-term performance are important.
Corrected-grain leather has been lightly buffed or treated to create a more uniform surface.
A coating, pigment or embossed grain may be applied to improve consistency in colour and appearance. This can make the material suitable for projects requiring a cleaner, more controlled or commercially consistent finish.
The level of correction and surface treatment may vary considerably between different leathers.
Suede has a soft, fibrous surface created from the inner section of the hide.
It offers a warm, tactile appearance and is available in a wide range of colours and weights. The direction of the nap can affect how the colour appears when viewed from different angles.
Suede may be suitable for casual footwear, sneakers, loafers, boots, bags and selected fashion applications. Its suitability should be assessed according to the required structure, lining and intended use.
Nubuck is produced by lightly sanding the outer grain surface of the leather.
It has a soft, velvety texture while retaining more of the strength and structure associated with the grain side of the hide. Its appearance may change subtly when touched, brushed or exposed to different lighting conditions.
Nubuck can provide a refined yet natural finish for footwear and leather goods.
Pull-up leather is treated with oils and waxes that move within the hide when the material is folded, stretched or handled.
This movement creates lighter tonal areas and a changing surface effect. Marks, creases and colour shifts are part of the intended character of the material rather than signs of damage.
Pull-up and waxed leathers are often selected for rugged footwear, boots, casual shoes, bags and accessories requiring a rich, lived-in appearance.
Embossed leather is pressed with a surface pattern to create a decorative or more uniform texture.
Embossing may reproduce geometric grains, reptile-inspired patterns, pebbled surfaces or other specialist effects. Printed finishes may also be used to introduce colour, pattern or visual depth.
The scale, depth and consistency of an embossed pattern may vary according to the hide, production batch and finishing process.
Patent and coated leathers have a sealed or highly finished surface that may range from softly polished to highly glossy.
These finishes can provide a distinctive, formal or fashion-led appearance. However, their flexibility, resistance to creasing and suitability for specific constructions should be considered during development.
Gloss levels may appear different depending on lighting, photography and screen display.
Specialist materials may include hair-on hides, metallic finishes, heavily textured leathers and selected exotic or exotic-effect surfaces.
Their availability, consistency, minimum quantities and suitability depend on the specific material and intended application.
Specialist materials should be evaluated individually before they are confirmed for development or production.
Footwear uppers may also incorporate canvas, denim, woven textiles, knitted materials, synthetics or other technical materials.
These options can be used independently or combined with leather to create different levels of flexibility, breathability, structure and visual contrast.
The material must be tested for cutting, stitching, reinforcement, lasting and compatibility with the selected construction method.
The materials inside a shoe are as important as those visible on the outside.
Linings, heel grips, toe puffs, counters, reinforcement tapes, insocks and footbeds affect comfort, stability, moisture management and the way the footwear maintains its shape.
Their selection depends on the style, construction, performance requirements and intended market position of the product.
The outsole and midsole influence the weight, flexibility, grip, durability and overall appearance of the footwear.
Common options may include:
The chosen sole must be compatible with the last, upper design, construction method and intended use of the footwear.
Availability may depend on existing moulds, minimum production quantities or the development of a custom sole.
Leather is a natural material, and no two hides are exactly alike.
Variations may occur between separate hides, different production batches and individual areas of the same hide. These differences are an inherent feature of genuine leather and contribute to the character of the finished material.
Natural variations may include:
These characteristics should not automatically be considered defects. Their visibility and acceptability depend on the leather type, finish, product category and agreed quality requirements.
The leather images shown on this website are intended to provide a representative visual guide.
Although reasonable care is taken when preparing and presenting material imagery, digital images cannot guarantee an exact representation of the physical leather.
The appearance of a colour or finish may be affected by:
As a result, a leather viewed online may appear lighter, darker, warmer, cooler, more matt or more glossy than the physical material.
Even where standard tannery colours or finishing references are used, minor variations may occur between hides and production batches.
Where precise colour, grain, texture or finish matching is important, we recommend requesting and approving a physical leather swatch or material sample before production.
A physical sample provides a more reliable indication of the material than a digital image. However, it should still be understood that natural variations may occur between the approved sample and the hides supplied for production.
Unless otherwise agreed in writing, an approved physical sample should take precedence over website imagery or digital colour references.
Material approval should take place before bulk cutting or production begins.
Leather and material availability may change according to tannery stock, supplier lead times, seasonal colour ranges and production schedules.
Certain materials may also be subject to:
Where an exact material is unavailable, a suitable alternative may be proposed for review and approval.
No alternative material should be considered confirmed until its colour, finish, performance and commercial conditions have been accepted.
Materials naturally react to wear, movement, moisture, light, heat and handling.
Depending on the leather or finish, changes may include:
These changes may form part of the expected ageing process of the material.
The intended use, care requirements and expected product lifespan should therefore be considered during material selection.
Choosing a suitable material requires a balance between creative intention and technical feasibility.
Our material guidance service supports clients in evaluating leather, textiles, linings, sole materials and components in relation to their design and production requirements.
We can help assess:
Material recommendations remain subject to supplier availability, physical testing and final client approval.
Tell us about your product, preferred appearance, intended use and production requirements.
Our team will help you evaluate suitable leather, finishes and footwear materials before sampling or production begins.
Smerilli Design Manufacturing Pty Ltd
Shop 1, 10 Industrial St, George Industria, George, South Africa
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